Lightroom Tutorial: Enhance Your Milky Way Photos The Easy Way
Get link
Facebook
Twitter
Pinterest
Email
Other Apps
Combine a few simple techniques in Lightroom and you’ll soon bring out the stellar detail in your Milky Way photos
Shooting the Milky Way needs a lot of luck with cloudless skies. Even then, what shows up on-screen can be a sad reflection on what we actually saw with our eyes!
Welcome to the 11th instalment of our Lightroom series, first published in Digital Camera magazine (see below for subscription offers).
If you are already a Lightroom user, you could discover some new tricks and processes you haven't tried yet. If you don't use Lightroom, then scroll down to the bottom where you'll discover how to get it and which Adobe Photography Plan is best.
Note: This was written for Lightroom 6. Some of the tools and panels have changed in later versions, notably the Chromatic Aberration Removal option (now a simple checkbox) and the Dehaze slider (now in the Basic panel).
It’s good to know that you can rely on Lightroom to help bring impact to the faint glow of our galaxy’s core. For this we’ll use a mix of tools: the Basic panel, the Lens Corrections panel and the Adjustment Brush. The base image is of the Milky Way with the International Space Station passing by.
1. Adjust the color
We’ll begin in the Basic panel, and start with the color. As there’s yellow light pollution in this shot, moving the Temperature slider makes the sky more blue, while reducing the impact of the sodium lighting. This also brings more balance to the complementary colours here.
2. Highlights and Exposure
(Image credit: Sean McCormack)
Push the Whites slider to ensure that the stars are fully white. For a stronger silhouette on the ground, reduce the Blacks. Finally, use Exposure to set the overall brightness.
3. Remove the color fringing
(Image credit: Sean McCormack)
As astrophotography is generally shot at wider apertures, you see more of the lens's vignetting effects and chromatic aberration. Go to Lens Corrections and turn on Remove Chromatic Aberration. Next, go to Manual, grab the eyedropper and click on the edge of a star with obvious edges. This removes the colour on the edges of the stars.
4. Correct distortion
(Image credit: Sean McCormack)
Next, click Enable Profile Corrections. This will correct lens distortion and fix the darkening of the corners in the photo, using a profile dedicated to the lens used. For astro-photography, I find it overdoes this fix, so you may need to reduce the effect by moving the Vignetting and Distortion sliders down to taste. This balances out the color and stops the stretching of stars at the corners a little.
5. Add some punch
(Image credit: Sean McCormack)
A great way to increase punch in an astro-photo is to increase the Dehaze slider, which is located in the Effects panel. A small amount does wonders to add contrast and saturation in the image.
6. Add depth
(Image credit: Sean McCormack)
The final global tool we’ll use is the Clarity slider, which you can find in the Basic panel. Increasing this really helps to bring out depth in the Milky Way. Too much of it can mush up the rest of the image, though, so be careful not to overdo it.
Expert tip: Paint in more depth
(Image credit: Sean McCormack)
Clarity looks good on the sky, but it’s too much for most of the image. Instead, click the Adjustment Brush under the Histogram (or press K). Double-click the word Effect to reset all the sliders and the swatch. Now set Clarity to 25 – that’s low, but it’s better to build the effect up. Set Feather to 100 for a soft edge. Set Flow and Density to 100 to get the full effect. Set the size to cover one half of the Milky Way. Brush along each half. Press New and repeat. Repeat again. Alternatively, right-click the active pin after the first round of brushing and choose Duplicate to double the effect. Hold down the Alt key to erase areas where you don’t want the effect after you’ve painted.
When you come back from a trip and have tons of photos, I am sure you must have thought of one big photo which can have some of the memorable pictures together. Yes, I am talking about a Collage, and in this post, I will share free Photo Collage makers . I will list online tools and software which can do the job for you. Rest assured that the collage you downloading or saving using these tools will not have any watermark. Free Photo Collage maker While these are free, they do have limitations. Some of them will not let you use all the templates, while some will only make you use a set of templates. Since we have four in the list, use a combination of them to get desired results. Adobe Spark BeFunky Fotojet Photoscape We researched a lot of software, but most of them either limited or leave a watermark. We even downloaded software which claimed to have no limitations but turned out to have a trial period. So these are your best options. 1] Adobe Spark It is the be
I have a handful of different photo editing apps on my phone. I don’t always edit my photos , but when I decide I want to add a little pizazz, I have a lot of ways to do that. I’m not ashamed to admit that AT ALL. There is literally nobody alive who doesn’t like to look good in a photo . Exactly what that means to each person is open to vast amounts of interpretation, but everyone likes to see a photo of themselves and think, “I like this one.” I’m not over here giving myself a different face or body, but sometimes I like to throw a filter on a selfie, remove a zit, mess with the lighting on a photo of my kids, add a caption, or even just find a way to make a simple snapshot look a little nicer. During the strictest part of lockdown last April, I made use of these apps when I had to do milestone photos for my three-month-old at home. They’re not as gorgeous as her pro shots, but they look kind of fine next to her professional pics, and that’s because I used some photo editing apps
If you’ve ever used Adobe Photoshop’s built-in Layer Styles tool as-is for creating drop shadows, you may have found it lacking in realism. Here’s a better way to add shadows to your product photography. A lot of the time I use Layer Styles for quick and dirty Photoshop jobs that are more about conveying the sense of depth or texture rather than really making it look lifelike when viewed close up. That’s where Tony Roslund ’s quick tip comes in (with a hat tip to Aaron Nace from Phlearn). As a professional product photographer, he needs those high-quality shadows for his clients that can usually only be achieved by taking some extra steps. Rather than going to the Layer Styles route, Roslund shows us how to use multiple duplicate layers to build more complex and lifelike shadows. By stacking shadows, his examples also have all the benefits of being independent layers to mask or further refine. Have you tried creating realistic shadows in Photoshop before? Do you use the La
Comments
Post a Comment